My LOVE for PALAARAM

“When people come to know that our freshly baked bread has a shelf life of only two days, they actually think it’s not of the best quality!” chuckles Shameel, one of the OWNERS of PALAARAM.

Palaaram, a cozy eatery located on Airport Seaport Road has a warm air of welcome right from when you enter. The décor will have you wonder what minimalist modernism has in common with vivacious Malabar cuisine. The answer hits you when you sit and observe for just a little while. Your eyes rove over the bakery like set up at the end of the room with a delectable array of pastries, homemade goodies, rows and rows of jars filled with much loved malayali evening snacks. It just brings to mind how accommodating Malabari cuisine is when it comes to a grand mix of tradition with a modern twist.

I had the pleasure of catching up with the three owners of Palaaram; SHAMEEL, SHAHEEN and HIMA. We chat enthusiastically about how food and related trends have evolved drastically over time. “Nowadays people are very conscious. They know what they want to eat. There are many choices available to them and many consumers are aware of what they like and dislike” shares Hima. A lot of time and effort was thus spent on market research to understand what it is that the consumer is looking for. “We have ensured that the food we provide is clean, hygienic and of top quality. Home cooked food with good quality ingredients always wins hearts (and tummies) over” says Shameel.

The success that Palaaram enjoys can be credited to Umma, mother of Shameel and Shaheen, the woman behind the recipes that have food connoisseurs across Kerala buzzing nonstop about the eartery. Umma is a food icon when it comes to traditional fare and has been in the catering business for over 25 years.  Flanking her are Shamla Salama, her sister Arifa Synudheen and Hiba, Shameel's wife.

With their roots in Parvoor, Palaaram started the first of their restaurant outlets in the same compound as their residence, dishing out platters of freshly made Kozhi Pidi, Kunji Pathiri and several other delectable delights. I love the fact that their central kitchen is accessible to the diners with tours on request. The food gets prepared fresh every day at Parvoor and is then transported to their two outlets. 

“The kozhi pidi and kunji pathiri that are in high demand were initially part of the special menu that we have every day. With the increase in demand, we made it part of our permanent menu. They are our biggest sellers!”

When asked about the décor, the idea of a mix between the English and Naadan emerged. Hiba and Shameel were initially in London running a catering business there as well. Coming back to India the family delved headlong into the food business along with Umma (who did her catering locally) and thus Palaaram was born. Palaaram enjoys a throng of customers around lunch time consisting of families and IT professionals, besides the 35 seater area located below the main restaurant catering to small parties and get togethers. Palaaram also does home deliveries.

The owners did face some issues in terms of imparting an understanding of the cuisine they serve. Most of the customers who came in, ordered only dishes they were familiar with. One on one interaction with the customers helped customer start experimenting with the variety of dishes and drinks Palaaram had on offer. Word of mouth played a major role in bringing in customers and very soon, Palaaram was one of the most talked about eatery in Cochin.

Apart from the selection of sweet and savory dishes, Palaaram also has packaged spices, home made pickles, chutney powders, tea time sweets and salty snacks giving the impression of a charming little bakery from yore. Almost all customers who dine in have remarked on the freshness of the food. “Customers are extremely happy when they are served delicious food that tastes fresh. A unique food preference we have noticed is that youngsters and children try traditional dishes such as Ney Chor or Shaap Curry whilst our older set of customers prefer cold coffee and burgers. We really respect the fact that the youth are embracing tradition when it comes to food.” Says Hima.

Palaaram boasts of a variety of Pidis, frozen snacks such as samosas, cutlets, spring rolls, Unakya and others. Christmas and special festivals host several types of Mappas, Tharavu Varuthu Arachathu and many more! “We also make to order for functions and snacks. So many customers are interested in seeing how these special snacks are made and we are happy to let them visit our kitchen any time. We do make other cuisines too but it will definitely have a palaaram touch” says Shaheen

Without further ado, I was brought an amazing spread of goodies for me to sample; starting with the MUNTHIRI VEVICHATHU: a pure, pulpy concoction of boiled down grape boats of a rich earthy flavor and a beautiful deep maroon that is absolutely seductive! 

This was followed by a drink of NARUNENDI  with COUS COUS. This drink was sweet and delicious and had a lovely cooling effect. The Narunendi root is in fact boiled for over 6 hours and the syrup is then used to make the drink.

My absolute favorite drink however was the PAAL SARBATH! Oh my good lord! I could drink this by the gallon! 

The cold milk mixed in with a base of narunendi syrup just hit all the check marks in my book! To go to Palaaram and not order the Paal Sarbath would be sin my dear foodies! 

What followed the glass of cool paal sarbath was a plate of KUNJI PATHIRI- BEEF, cute little soft handmade morsels, the creaminess of which paired beautifully with the spicy pieces of beef.

I was also served the DRAGON CHICKEN, which was super fresh, sans ajinomoto with perfectly cooked chicken strips sautéed with ginger-garlic, pepper and a variety of sauces.

I tasted the KOZHI PIDI, which was rich and mild with a creamy coconut milk base.

The tasting session was rounded off with THAVA FRIED PRAWNS which were fantastic! The prawns tasted as fresh as ever, fried to perfection and the masala, simply stunning.

“We started discussions two and a half years back and on April 18^th, 2015, our Parvoor outlet was set up followed by the seaport-airport road on March 23^rd 2016 and the Aluva outlet on Nov 23^rd, 2016. We are very happy that we have done what we set out to do. Expansion will be slow but steady and we hope to spread the love for Malabar Cuisine across Kerala!”

EVOLVE back in time

“I don’t want PRIMATE to be seen as a restaurant. It is a natural concept” says ELDHO PACHILAKKADAN, OWNER of the first raw foods eatery in Kerala. Walk into Primate and somehow, you feel at ease. The room is airy, bright and boasts of a certain natural setting that many restaurants lack nowadays.

Eldo is part of TNHS-The Travancore Natural History Society, an NGO that conducts bio diversity surveys; studying the food, habitat and life cycles of various species; the findings of which have coxed him to turn to a naturalist movement. An architect by profession, it took Eldho 5 years to shift to a way of life that looks to a harmonious co-existence with nature.

“Nature has a deep relation with food. Every animal has a duty. Take for example pollination. The way we live right now throws off the delicate balance of nature. Not many people understand the alarming facts. Animals generally are quite healthy upon inspection. This is because they derive their nourishment directly from nature. This is where we humans suffer a lapse. When we process the food nature provides us through cooking, we lose sight of our position in the cycle.” explains Eldho.

Several customers who visit Primate out of curiosity have become regulars; each with a different purpose. Be it weight loss, detox or a plain communion with nature, Primate holds the key and all of its customers have embraced the concept with absolute delight! “We live in a kill and survive environment; mostly because those are the skills that have been handed down to us. If only we tried to grasp our environmental role, we would be able to live harmoniously  along with nature.”

According to Edho, food is a medium through which stories could be conveyed. It is a basic necessity without any secrets. Food, he says, should never hold any secrets. With this thought in mind, Primate hosts classes that help customers understand how to best prepare raw food without losing any vital nutrients. The Primate Kitchen uses only organically grown produce with nut milk substitutes for cow’s milk. What I found most interesting was the artistic creation of similar tastes. A lot of taste testing went into each of the offerings at Primate in order to make them resemble their counterparts made using milk, cheese, meat and cooked foods.

“A vegan is different from a naturalist” says Eldho “Naturalists understand what man is and his role in the environment and lives accordingly.” Cochin being Eldho’s hometown, seemed like the best place to start something as unique, what with the multitude of concept restaurants mushrooming everywhere. Apart from serving raw foods, Eldho dishes out a side of philosophy which many customers listen to in rapt attention. 

“Three families have already shifted to the naturalist movements” says Eldho with a big smile “all our staff members are also naturalists. I was a non-vegetarian with an intense love for pork, but shifting to a naturalist way of life has been a calling. I cannot move from something I believe in. Keeping requirements of people in mind, we have also introduced biriyanis which are cauliflower based with dried onions, nuts, raisins, broccoli and carrots. We have patrons who swear by it!”

Food can be identified using just our senses. Our powers of sight, smell, touch and taste; that is the natural way of identifying edible foods. “One needs to change the environment through one’s diet. It is not just the food habits but the overall lifestyle and outlook as such that needs a change. We need to become more attuned to nature.” Says Eldho.

Eldho brings out an array of delights for me to review.  I start with a delightful and tangy lime cooler replete with the luscious full bodied honey.

I can’t tell you how big a fan I am of their spring rolls! A yum medley of fruit and vegetables wrapped in crunchy lettuce leaves. Dip into their chunky and piquant house made tomato ketchup and get set for some firecrackers exploding in your mouth!

The taco salad was a thing of beauty! A delicious nut based sauce mixed into some chunks sweet papaya, pineapple and juicy vegetables topped with more of their house made tomato sauce.  Scooped onto a leaf of purple lettuce, each bite was absolute delight!

The happy cow salad was a tame little prince when compared to the fiery queen I had before. A creamy mix of chopped up veges was filling and quite mellow on the tummy!

 My utmost favorite I’d have to say, was the crudité with labneh! Labneh is traditionally made from Greek yoghurt; the Primate counterpart however is cashew based. It paired  beautifully with the 

succulent pieces of cucumber and peppers lifting the overall taste to a whole new amazing level!

We wrapped up the tasting with a trip of desserts: Cheesecake, choco-nut ball and cookie. I cannot believe how perfectly the tastes and textures of the desserts had been mimicked! The cheesecake was nut milk based, with a moist base of walnuts and raisins. I was floored by that choco-nut ball made with nuts, dates and cocoa, sprinkled with desiccated coconut. The cookie was moist and nutty drizzled with a rich dark chocolate sauce that could be lapped up on its own!

“I wouldn’t force anyone to change but I do pass on the message and hope logic strikes!” says Eldho in closing.

A Home away from Home!

“I didn’t advertise before opening AANGAN because I am someone who truly believes in word of mouth” says AJAI ASHOK, OWNER. And word of mouth seems to have worked really well for Aangan. When I visited the restaurant for the interview, it was packed; mostly with families. 

Like most individuals who carve a niche for themselves in the food industry, Ajai’s background is in no way related to food;  in fact, he is a Qatar based chartered account. He landed in Cochin with the sole intent of shifting his talents to business and the restaurant business was discovered to be one of the most lucrative options Ajai could turn to.

The ideal location for the restaurant took a little more time to lock in. “I felt that Palarivattom is developing rapidly and there were only 12-15 notable restaurants in this area. A proper multi cuisine restaurant that caters to families was absent and hence, I decided to fill this gap in format. Aangan is located in a large residential area with a lot of NRIs and this proved to be a huge market for the restaurant.” The response that Aangan received shows that Ajai has snapped shut that gap for a good family restaurant. Aangan also has a party hall that can accommodate upto 150 guests. Besides the walk ins, Aangan also has a delivery service of 5km radius. About 30% of their orders are home deliveries.

I was served a welcome drink the moment I arrived. This practice is for all guests mind you. It was a glass of Papaya juice but because of my allergies to the fruit, they were courteous enough to serve me a refreshing glass of lime mint cooler abuzz with a pleasing bite of ginger. As mentioned earlier, Ajai is a staunch believer of word of mouth advertising and he makes it a point to interact with all diners who come in. In fact, he has created a personal rapport with most of the repeat customers. The great ambience, reasonable cost and the exemplary service has most of the diners coming back in hoards. “I am not a foodie but I believe in providing the best food teamed with the best customer service. My mother is a fantastic cook hence I have learnt to appreciate good food. More importantly, I want my customers to feel a sense of comfort at Aangan.”

A market research of families who frequent restaurants revealed that most of them prefer a homely atmosphere even while dining outdoors. Most families want relatively quiet, clean settings with ample parking facilities. The most unique factor that Aangan has to offer is that almost 70% of the products used to prepare the dishes come from Ajai’s farms! Apart from the chicken and beef brought from outside vendors, curry powders, most of the vegetables, spices, coconut oil and seafood come from the family farms. Even the paneer and sauces are made in house. 

The goal behind this sort of a production method is to provide the customer with healthy, pesticide free food. Aangan serves seven types of cuisines; Kerala, Continental, Thai and Chinese to name a few (ajinomoto is not used while preparing any of the dishes). Apart from serving only whole wheat chapathies, the restaurant also avoids frozen foods as much as possible. “It is difficult to introduce healthy foods to customers. Many want the softness of maida breads over healthier wheat alternatives. Then again, everyone has individual tastes and so satisfying everyone will be out of the question. But yes, there are many customers who appreciate the sincere efforts taken.” Says Ajai.

The restaurant industry is one where there is constant learning, and Ajai is up to the challenge. He does all the purchasing for the restaurant and thanks to his supportive staff; he has been able to run the restaurant like a well-oiled machine.

I couldn’t wait to try out some of the dishes and my happy tummy was served masala batter fried prawns and squid to start off. The masala was a delightfully peppery one with a lovely crunch and oh my god the seafood! It was extremely fresh, soft and tender with absolutely no fishy after taste. It was the most amazing plate of seafood I had ever tasted! The freshness was outstanding!  Next up was a sample tandoori platter with portions of tandoori chicken, hariyali kebabs and malai kebabs. I have yet to taste such moist delectable kebabs! The kebabs were soft, easy to cut with just a fork and not drowning in marinade. The marinade, ground from fresh herbs without any food colouring was delicious on its own as well! I really liked the fact that I could taste the succulence of the chicken all the way to the last bite. The house made mint sauce paired really well with the tandoori chicken and it was such a refreshing delight!

The final dish I was served was the paneer butter masala with hot, buttery naans. Oh good lord! The paneer at Aangan is the stuff of legends! The gravy was rich and decadent with generous chunks of the softest, most delicate paneer I have ever had the pleasure of devouring! This is by far the best paneer butter masala I have had in Cochin! I haven’t enjoyed a meal this much in a long time!

“I want Aangan to be more than a restaurant chain. I want it to be an experience. I have in mind a plan to start restaurants with varied themes. I am exploring options regarding the same.” All the best Ajai! You’re sure to go a long way!